Although there are many techniques to mount butterflies and moths, below is a description
of the one I prefer. All techniques described have their strengths and weakness'
but all follow a few basic plans. Furthermore, some modification may be necessary, depending
upon the characteristics of the specimen being mounted.
Collecting, Killing and Storing Specimens
After netting a butterfly in an aerial net, the best way to kill it is by pinching its
thorax (middle body segment) between your thumb and forefinger. This technique takes
some practice to learn the proper pressure, but it will stun the specimen immediately
and prevent it from damaging itself. The stunned specimen can then be slid into an
envelope or a paper triangle as shown in Figure 2, with its wings over it's back. Butterfly
specimens can be kept in this condition indefinitely in a box with moth balls or
other insecticide to protect specimens from damaging dermestid beetle larvae and book
lice, until they are "relaxed" for mounting. Alternatively, freshly papered specimens
can be kept in a plastic bag in a freezer until they are mounted, eliminating the need
to "relax" the specimen before mounting since frozen specimens will relax as they thaw.
Relaxing Dried Specimens
After insects are dead, they become extremely brittle. However, dried specimens can
always be relaxed and mounted in any desired position. The only potential drawback
is mold. Relaxing jars can be made from jars, plastic boxes, or any other airtight
containers. These containers are partially filled with sand or paper towels and then
water is added to make conditions in the box very humid. The only other concern before
adding dried specimens is adding a substance to prohibit the growth of mold on the
specimen. The ideal fungicide is chlorocresol, sold through chemical supply houses.
Some companies have specialized "relaxing fluid" such as Glanz relaxing fluid distributed
by Bryanston Corp., N.Y. However, in a pinch, Lysol can be used. The time
required to relax a specimen will vary and depend upon the specimen's size, the level
of humidity in the relaxing jar, and the storage temperature. Don't be impatient.
However, if any mold begins to form, remove the specimen immediately. If you are in
an extreme hurry or can not find a mold inhibitor, the specimen can be relaxed in one
minute by holding its body in a pan of boiling water, being careful not to get the
wings wet or burning your fingers.
Pinning the Specimen
After relaxing the specimen (Fig. 1), remove it from its envelope carefully using forceps
(Fig 2). Holding the specimen by the thorax, force an insect pin through the
middle of the body between the wings (Fig. 3). The wings may be forced backwards in
order to insert the pin far enough through the body. After the pin is through the
body, it is often helpful to force the wings down briefly with forceps. This step
makes the specimen easier to manipulate once it is on the mounting board. Next
pin the specimen onto the mounting board being certain to keep the side of the butterfly,
where the wings are hinged to the body, just above the surface of the mounting
board (Figs. 4 and 5). Also, be sure that the Din is straight up and down in the
middle of the mounting board's groove.
Mounting the Wings, Body and Antennae
When the specimen has been properly placed on the mounting board, wings can be folded
down using strips of paper and pins (Fig 6). Avoid touching the wing surfaces with
your fingers which would rub off scales. Once both pairs of wings are pinned down,
move the front wings forward individually or both at the same time to avoid twisting
the body around the pin (Fig. 7). Be certain to only insert pins into the wings behind
larger veins to prevent ripping the wings. Move the front wings forward far
enough so that their hind margins form a nearly straight line (Fig. 8). Move the hind
wings forward underneath the front wings enough to match patterns, but not so far as
to obscure color patterns. Next, pay attention to antennae and the abdomen, pinning
them in their proper positions (Fig. 9). Check the overall position of the specimen
and make any adjustments necessary before placing wider strips of paper over the wings
to keep them from curling up during the drying period (Fig. 10). Drying time will
depend upon specimen size, temperature and humidity. Drying can be sped up by placing
the specimen underneath a lamp. After the specimen is dry, carefully remove the pins
and discard the paper strips. Reusing these strips may result in the loss of scales
from the wing surfaces.
Storage of Mounted Specimens
Keep mounted specimens in tightly closed boxes with moth balls or paradichlorobenzene
or other insecticide to prevent dermestid beetle larvae and book lice from feeding
on the body parts. If the specimens are kept in glass frames or domes, keep them
out of direct sunlight to avoid fading of colors. Always keep specimens in low moisture
conditions to prevent mold from growing on the specimen's body. Stored properly,
specimens will last for years and years.
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