Flea control is unlike any other pest control problem homeowners experience. Cockroaches, armyworms and other indoor and outdoor pests can often be controlled within 24 hours with a single application of a pesticide. Not so with fleas. Flea control, at best, is a difficult task. Heavy populations may take several applications of a pesticide and as long as 4 weeks to control. With fleas, patience is a virtue.
Successful flea control must include a thorough treatment of the
infested animal and the entire infested premises - indoors and
outdoors. Homeowners often wait until adult fleas are seen before
treatment is begun. Research indicates the best strategy is to
start early (in March or April) before fleas have the chance to
gain the upper hand.
Fleas have a complete life cycle. Now don't get carried away. This is important information, and the more you know about this pest the more this information will help you. So continue reading!
The egg is whitish, about 1/32" long (about the size of a period on this page). They are laid on the host (dog or cat) and fall to the floor, ground or on furniture and then hatch in 2-3 days, usually.
This is important to know because there are products that will actually kill the egg before it falls from the animal. If eggs are killed, no adult fleas develop and there is no pest problem. More about this in the control section.
The eggs hatch into a larval stage. Larvae are very small, white and mostly translucent. They look like tiny worms with sparse hairs on the body. At 80 degrees F, it takes 3 to 4 weeks for fleas to develop from egg to adult. Moisture also plays an important role in larval development. Relative humidity has to be above 50%. There is sufficient humidity within the home to complete development. Outdoors is a different matter. In dry weather fleas may only survive in cool, damp areas. Outdoor treatments should be applied to areas where there is sufficient moisture to complete development (beneath shrubbery or other pet loafing areas).
Larvae feed mainly on undigested blood voided by adult fleas. The blood dries on the hair and falls from the animal. This is important to know because the adult fleas live their entire life (for the most part) on dogs and cats. So where these pets spend most of their time is where most of the eggs and larvae are going to be found.
Larvae pass from the larval stage to the pupal stage. The pupae are found within a silken cocoon, which is covered with sand, dust or other organic debris. Because of this covering the pupal stage is nearly impossible to kill with pesticides.
Under favorable conditions adults emerge in a week or two, but in the absence of a food source they may remain in the cocoon for as long as 6 weeks. The fact that adult fleas can live without food for remarkably long periods accounts for the fact that people may enter a house after it has been unoccupied by humans or pets for several weeks yet be rapidly and severely attacked by fleas. More good information to know.
Control of heavy infestations of fleas is probably best left to a pest control operator (PCO). Often, these servicemen have access to products that are not available to homeowners.
Flea control is best achieved early. If you had problems last year, you will probably have problems this year. So plan ahead. The secret to good flea control is to treat before fleas get started.
Good flea control is best achieved when treatment is begun before adult fleas become a problem. Treat indoors in late March or April with a product that contains methoprene (Precor®) or pyriproxyfen (Archer®) and is labeled for flea control. Methoprene and pyriproxyfen are insect growth regulators (IGRs). IGRs destroy insects by interfering with the molting process. Both IGRs have a very low mammalian toxicity and are safe for pets and children. Homeowners can purchase these products and do the treating themselves. Unlike pyriproxyfen. which can be used outdoors, methoprene is unstable in sunlight and is not effective for outdoor use.
What do I do if I already have a flea problem?
Move ! Seriously, there are things that can be done, but they take time. Be patient.
First, you start with the pet. Visit your local veterinarian or vet supply store and purchase one or more of the following products:
Follow the directions on the label and treat the pet. When used on animals, these products work as an ovicide and are used to kill flea eggs before they fall from the pet. They also work on the adult flea causing production of non-viable eggs. These products are used to prevent development of flea populations in the house or yard. They can be used at any time but are best used early (March or April) before adult fleas develop. Methoprene (Ovitrol®) is also available in a pet collar and as a premise spray (Precor®).
In addition to the IGRs, two new chemicals have been developed for control of adult fleas on pets. These insecticides, imidacloprid (Advantage®) and fipronil (Frontline®), are sold through veterinarians. They do not prevent development of developing larvae. Therefore, they should be used in conjunction with IGR premise sprays such as methoprene and pyriproxyfen to eliminate flea populations.
Now you need to do the premise treatment (indoor and outdoor). Again, this chore may be best left to a pest control operator, but some fenoxycarb aerosol sprays for control of flea larvae also may be purchased from veterinarians. Pyriproxyfen, is available under the trade name Archer® and may be purchased from pest control companies. Methoprene (Siphitrol®) and pyriproxyfen (Mycodex Environmental Spray®) are also available as aerosol sprays for indoor use.
Outdoor Treatment:
1. Treat soil in shaded areas where pets spend a lot of time. It may also be necessary to treat patios, porches, sidewalks and garage floors. Wash or replace pet bedding and treat.
2. Wash or replace pet bedding and treat.
3. Suggested materials: The IGR pyriproxyfen (Archer49) appears to give the longest control.
Other products include: bendiocarb (Ficam®), diazinon, malathion, propoxur (Baygon®), chlorpyrifos (Dursban®), fluvalinate (Yardex®).
Indoor Treatment
1 . Mop, vacuum and dust thoroughly, including floors, cushions, under curtains and furniture. Note: Dispose of vacuum bag contents after use.
2. Wash and treat or replace pet bedding.
3. Orient curtains so they stand out. Remove cushions from furniture and stand them up.
4. (A) Use a total release aerosol (fogger) or an inverted aerosol spray that contains insecticides such as chlorpyrifos or propetamphos (Safotrin®). It must also contain methoprene or pyriproxyfen.
....(B) If an aerosol fogger is not available, use a liquid spray containing methoprene (Precor®) or pyriproxyfen (Archer®) plus one of the following insecticides: allethrin (Pynamin®), bendiocarb (Ficam®), chlorpyrifos (Dursban®), permethrin, propoxur (Baygon®), propetamphos (Safotrin®) or resmethrin.
5. If using a liquid spray, treat floors, especially carpet, furniture and cushions in areas frequented by pets. Be sure to treat under beds and furniture.
Children and pets should not be in vicinity during treatment and not allowed in the area until the spray has dried. Also, remember to remove birds and cover fish tanks during spray applications.
Remember ... Good flea control cannot be achieved overnight. Be patient and be persistent.
The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to commercial products or trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Cooperative Extension Service is implied.
Educational programs conducted by the Texas Agricultural
Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race,
color, sex, disability, religion, age or national origin.
Return
to top of page
Return
to Departmental Home Page
Last modified: March 18, 1997 by Edgar Cross